So a little about the rock climbing here:
The sandstone at Joe's is without a doubt some of the most beautiful rock that I've climbed on. Each boulder is streaked with black, white, brown and gray. The holds are varied from tufas, pockets, limestone slicked edges, sticky slopers and technical smears. The climbing tends to be quite dynamic and thuggy. I like it.
So time for the spray. Here are some of my favorite problems that I've been able to tick so far on my trip here!
Dark Continent - V7 - An amazing overhanging arete to face climbing that looks just like Africa
Chips - V7 - Kneebar, toe-hook, pogo. You can ask for more!
Pocket Rocket - V6 - Dyno!
3-Finger Pocket - V5 - Sailing Hawks Classic
V4- Sailing Hawks - Don't know how to describe this problem except for Arkansas-esque
Self Service - V4 - Great problem that reminded me of Hueco movement
Super Sloper - V3 - Classic boulder problem with the most glorious of glory jugs
The Angler - V2 - One of the must do lines at Joe's. Highball!
Warm Me Up Scotty - V1 - Jugs to a great funky and crimpy top out. Gets the blood moving.
Can't wait to get back out tomorrow for some more climbing. Hopefully the snow we are getting today doesn't soil the top outs!!!
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
Joe's Valley
I'm having a writers block of some sort. Had a full rest day on Monday; spent it at the library trying to come up with the words to describe all of my travel up to Joe's, and then the little amount of time that I've spent here but nothing would come of it. We'll give it another shot here now...
Day 1 of freedom was spent hanging out with Kevin Martin down in Denver. There was the intent to climb in the Flatirons in the morning to try and finish off a project there, but intent just wasn't enough to get me there that day.
Days 2 and 3 were spent commuting to Durango, CO and climbing there. A good friend from Sanborn lives there now, so I was able to find shelter on his floor and get the good tour of the bouldering areas at the same time. Definitely was psyched on the amazing sandstone boulders there, and I managed to finish off a few of the local classics! Everything there was great quality, and I am definitely trying to figure out when I'll be able to go back and check it out for a little longer period of time.
Mesa Verde NP
Day 4 I made the drive to Moab and stopped in at Mesa Verde NP on the way. Stunning vistas! Made it into Moab around 6, and went to check the local gear shop out from some info on free camping. Ended up one of the dudes had a free spot in his driveway. Score. He also had a sick 8x12 climbing wall in his house that we bouldered around on all night. It doesn't get much better than that!
Day 5 was split between Arches NP and Canyonlands NP. The beauty of these two places left me speechless to say the least. I've never been to a place that has literally left my awe struck. Everywhere I went, every view left me with the strange unsatisfied feeling; like I was turning my back on something or missing some big part of understanding the true nature of where I was. Road side tourism doesn't do these places justice, and I know that there is something there more for me to see, to understand and I can't wait to get back to those places and discover something great.
Delicate Arch, Arches NP
Canyonlands NP
I made the rest of my commute to Joe's Valley that evening and met up with my buddy from Durango, and a few more folks from Estes.
Day 6 through now have all been spent in Joe's Valley and the boulders that make up the area. The climbing is amazing, and I finally feel like I'm getting adjusted to the area; having been able to start ticking climbs that are right in my range of do-ability.
I keep meaning to take more pictures but when you get super excited about boulder problems it is kind of hard to remember! Better updates are to come, and I'm glad that I finally have this lengthy update out of the way!
Day 1 of freedom was spent hanging out with Kevin Martin down in Denver. There was the intent to climb in the Flatirons in the morning to try and finish off a project there, but intent just wasn't enough to get me there that day.
Days 2 and 3 were spent commuting to Durango, CO and climbing there. A good friend from Sanborn lives there now, so I was able to find shelter on his floor and get the good tour of the bouldering areas at the same time. Definitely was psyched on the amazing sandstone boulders there, and I managed to finish off a few of the local classics! Everything there was great quality, and I am definitely trying to figure out when I'll be able to go back and check it out for a little longer period of time.
Mesa Verde NPDay 4 I made the drive to Moab and stopped in at Mesa Verde NP on the way. Stunning vistas! Made it into Moab around 6, and went to check the local gear shop out from some info on free camping. Ended up one of the dudes had a free spot in his driveway. Score. He also had a sick 8x12 climbing wall in his house that we bouldered around on all night. It doesn't get much better than that!
Day 5 was split between Arches NP and Canyonlands NP. The beauty of these two places left me speechless to say the least. I've never been to a place that has literally left my awe struck. Everywhere I went, every view left me with the strange unsatisfied feeling; like I was turning my back on something or missing some big part of understanding the true nature of where I was. Road side tourism doesn't do these places justice, and I know that there is something there more for me to see, to understand and I can't wait to get back to those places and discover something great.
Delicate Arch, Arches NP
Canyonlands NPI made the rest of my commute to Joe's Valley that evening and met up with my buddy from Durango, and a few more folks from Estes.
Day 6 through now have all been spent in Joe's Valley and the boulders that make up the area. The climbing is amazing, and I finally feel like I'm getting adjusted to the area; having been able to start ticking climbs that are right in my range of do-ability.
I keep meaning to take more pictures but when you get super excited about boulder problems it is kind of hard to remember! Better updates are to come, and I'm glad that I finally have this lengthy update out of the way!
Thursday, October 28, 2010
Sunday, October 17, 2010
3 Days at Devil's Tower
Got convinced to head up to Wyoming for a few days last week and experience some of the most amazing crack climbing that the country has to offer. I only ended up seconding pitches for the trip, but it was still super exciting to climb amazing splitter cracks in one of the most unique climbing areas in the country.
Here are a few photos from the trip!
At the top of Tolgey Wood 5.10a:
The view of Devil's Tower from the base:
Cheesin':
Pitch 2 El Matador 5.10d. 160 feet of stemming. I have never hurt worse at the top of a rock climb than this one:
Still stemming:
Trying not to hurl at the top of El Matador:
On day 2 we were hexed by a chanting Native American, and swarmed with bees. Day 3, we encountered this little rattler. Possibly the spirit of the Engine?!
Getting a little no hands rest in on Pitch 2 of One Way Sunset 5.10c. You can see the .10c finger crack below. Pitch 2 is all hands. So pumped at the top of that one.
Pulling through the last jugs to the super exposed, bird crap encrusted belay on Pitch 3 of One Way Sunset. This belay literally sits about 20ft. further out from the wall than where we started climbing:
On the top with Justin after topping out One Way Sunset:
Just a few random shots of the amazing feature that is the Devil's Tower:
From afar:
Two weeks of work left then I'm officially out of Estes Park! Psyched to finish off strong with tons of work and hopefully a fair amount of extra cash in the pockets!
Here are a few photos from the trip!
At the top of Tolgey Wood 5.10a:
The view of Devil's Tower from the base:
Cheesin':
Pitch 2 El Matador 5.10d. 160 feet of stemming. I have never hurt worse at the top of a rock climb than this one:
Still stemming:
Trying not to hurl at the top of El Matador:
On day 2 we were hexed by a chanting Native American, and swarmed with bees. Day 3, we encountered this little rattler. Possibly the spirit of the Engine?!
Getting a little no hands rest in on Pitch 2 of One Way Sunset 5.10c. You can see the .10c finger crack below. Pitch 2 is all hands. So pumped at the top of that one.
Pulling through the last jugs to the super exposed, bird crap encrusted belay on Pitch 3 of One Way Sunset. This belay literally sits about 20ft. further out from the wall than where we started climbing:
On the top with Justin after topping out One Way Sunset:
Just a few random shots of the amazing feature that is the Devil's Tower:
From afar:
Two weeks of work left then I'm officially out of Estes Park! Psyched to finish off strong with tons of work and hopefully a fair amount of extra cash in the pockets!
Monday, September 20, 2010
Home Soon
Flying into Louisville on Friday to hang with the family and get some rock climbing done. Should be rolling back into the Falls on Sunday afternoon and getting things started. Can't wait to hop back on some of my old projects and see if I can't polish off a few new ones! Psyched beyond measure!
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Plans...
After mulling over everyone else's plans for the winter, I've finally decided to sack up and make my own; do the things that I've always wanted, and the things that will make me happy.
Vague itenerary:
End Oct./Early Nov. - Get the hell out of Estes. Head EAST!
November - Kentucky, Family, Friends
December - W.V., Georgia, Alabama, Home for Christmas
January - Arkansas, to Dallas, TX on the 30th.
January 31st - Catch flight to Madrid, Spain
February/March/April 28 - Wherever the wind blows.
Just booked the tickets too!
Psyched about life!
Saturday, August 7, 2010
Finished...
Laid to rest a 3 or 4 day project for myself today. Fired the thing second go, and I can confidently say that this new line is the hardest thing that I've been able to finish so far in my bouldering career; 17 moves of endurance climbing that stays with you the entire way, and ends with a committing stab to a good sidepull! Hopefully this momentum will pick up and there will be more good news/hard personal sends to report!
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