Well, I got home from work today and Lane wanted to hang out and do some bouldering on the wall. So, we messed around for a bit, and found some cool little lines. I also gave a line another try that I was working on some yesterday and was able to give it a send today.
I decided to call it Pinch Master Flex, and if you pay close enough attention you can see the start is a match on a cruddy bread loaf pinch, to a slopey little edge then an immediate bump to a moderately good left hand pinch. Next, you have to match your right heel and hand and rock up hard on the heel and do your best to lock off and hit a decent sloper (I couldn't lock off quite good enough either, and consequently my feet popped). From there you need to re-establish your feet and get ready for the crux, a move over to a left hand undercling pinch. From there move the feet to really get hard into the undercling, drop a knee to a jug, and then cross through the rest of the way on decent jugs.
Pretty psyched, and I think that it would probably fall somewhere in the spectrum of hard V3. Just a little guess. We'll have to see how everyone else does on the problem to verify that though. Here's a little video of the route. Watch out for vertigo though. Lane got all sideways with it half way through the video.
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Pics of the First Bouldering Session
Well I put the holds on today and It has really come together well! It feels so great to be able to get a session in in the middle of the week for once! 12's best be watching themselves because I'm coming! Here are some pictures with K-Bo. (Hi Kevin's mom, in case you decided to check out the blog!)
The first hold...I ended up taking it back off. lol
Check that angle!
K-Bo, warming up with still minimal holds on the wall.
With most of the holds on:
Starting to find projects!:
Gotta lock that heel in before I try to make that move next time! I fell shortly after.:
The first hold...I ended up taking it back off. lol
Check that angle!
K-Bo, warming up with still minimal holds on the wall.
With most of the holds on:
Starting to find projects!:
Gotta lock that heel in before I try to make that move next time! I fell shortly after.:
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
It's finally done!
The wall is finally complete! It just needs some holds, which will go on tomorrow, and then it needs some climbing to commence! These pictures are from earlier in the day though, so now all of the panels are on and it is placed in it's place and it's ready to start getting sent!
Monday, September 22, 2008
Updates
Well, it's been two weeks consecutively with no climbing. I don't know what to do. I might just go insane.
In light of that thought I have been doing a lot of school work, working a considerable amount with my on campus job at the Center for Environmental Education, and then working at Pagliai's some as well. This past weekend was the first weekend for the Center's program called pre-service, which is basically where all of the elementary ed. undergrads come out the a retreat center in LBL and we teach them some really cool methods that they could use in their own classrooms when they're out and teaching. It's pretty cool and it was fun because I had the chance to work with my mom in the program.
Apart from that weekend I've also had a few projects going around the house. I had an old Schwinn bike frame lying around that I wasn't using so one day my friends Kevin and Stephen came over and we tore everything off of the frame and gave it a coat of some flat black and them we reassembeled everything. It was defintely a pretty cool little project and it was fun to learn a little more about bikes! Here are a few pictures of the finished product. I also bought a few new things for the bike including a head light, tail light, some new bar tape, and brake levers and calipers. The thing is gonna be pretty sharp when I get it all done. I'll be sure to get some more photos when it's all done.
Finally, the big project. I've been figuring and figuring and figuring some more and finally have started to get the bouldering wall project going. Yesterday, I busted ass on the project and made some considerable progress. Pretty much the current status is that the whole thing is framed in as of this morning and now I'm just waiting for this evening to roll around so I can have some friends come over to lend a hand in getting all of the supports up so it will be able to support it's self. I'm pretty excited and would love to be able to start setting some problems on it by the end of the week!
I hope everyone is doing well!
In light of that thought I have been doing a lot of school work, working a considerable amount with my on campus job at the Center for Environmental Education, and then working at Pagliai's some as well. This past weekend was the first weekend for the Center's program called pre-service, which is basically where all of the elementary ed. undergrads come out the a retreat center in LBL and we teach them some really cool methods that they could use in their own classrooms when they're out and teaching. It's pretty cool and it was fun because I had the chance to work with my mom in the program.
Apart from that weekend I've also had a few projects going around the house. I had an old Schwinn bike frame lying around that I wasn't using so one day my friends Kevin and Stephen came over and we tore everything off of the frame and gave it a coat of some flat black and them we reassembeled everything. It was defintely a pretty cool little project and it was fun to learn a little more about bikes! Here are a few pictures of the finished product. I also bought a few new things for the bike including a head light, tail light, some new bar tape, and brake levers and calipers. The thing is gonna be pretty sharp when I get it all done. I'll be sure to get some more photos when it's all done.
Finally, the big project. I've been figuring and figuring and figuring some more and finally have started to get the bouldering wall project going. Yesterday, I busted ass on the project and made some considerable progress. Pretty much the current status is that the whole thing is framed in as of this morning and now I'm just waiting for this evening to roll around so I can have some friends come over to lend a hand in getting all of the supports up so it will be able to support it's self. I'm pretty excited and would love to be able to start setting some problems on it by the end of the week!
I hope everyone is doing well!
Monday, September 8, 2008
Jackson Falls 9/6
Well, once again I was fortunate enough to get back out to Jackson Falls again last weekend. This time the crew I went out with was Kevin Bogard, his cousin Steven, and then Kevin Martin who I got to know this summer in CO. It was without a doubt an awesome day!
Starting out we went to the Royal Arch wall and hit Archangel .10a for Kevin, and then swung over on top rope and tried the .11+ again. It was hard! I hadn't warmed up yet though and I think that might have contributed to some of the difficulties that I was having with the route. I couldn't get through the crux.
Next, we went over to Lovely Arete...again. This time I was just running through all of the beta in my head before I got on it and when I did start climbing well...I effed it all up to say the least, but some where out of it I was able to keep things together and I was finally able to send! I'm definitely excited to get that one out of the way, and it was really inspiring to see Kevin work things out and flash the route. Chump.
After that we ran over to The Gallery and I got a flash on a cool .10a called Earthbound Misfits. Definitely the best route of that grade that I've climbed thus far and would love to get back on it again!
Finally, Kevin Martin and I headed over to this super classic .12a called Everybody Needs Friends and went for the lead. After Kevin got the first two bolts, he came down for a rest and I ended up working it through the fourth and to the anchors. Definitely was a really cool route and really is cool since only a year ago my life's goal in climbing was the send a .12a, and what do you know...it's getting pretty close. Might have to do some readjusting!
Here are some pictures from the climbs!
Getting ready to start:
Opening moves:
Almost to the first bolt:
About to clip the second bolt and then start the crux:
Through the business at a rest of sorts:
Moving up towards the slabby topout:
Clipping the chains and red pointing!:
Cruddy, bad idea, .11+ warmup:
How I ended up looking most of the time:
Starting out we went to the Royal Arch wall and hit Archangel .10a for Kevin, and then swung over on top rope and tried the .11+ again. It was hard! I hadn't warmed up yet though and I think that might have contributed to some of the difficulties that I was having with the route. I couldn't get through the crux.
Next, we went over to Lovely Arete...again. This time I was just running through all of the beta in my head before I got on it and when I did start climbing well...I effed it all up to say the least, but some where out of it I was able to keep things together and I was finally able to send! I'm definitely excited to get that one out of the way, and it was really inspiring to see Kevin work things out and flash the route. Chump.
After that we ran over to The Gallery and I got a flash on a cool .10a called Earthbound Misfits. Definitely the best route of that grade that I've climbed thus far and would love to get back on it again!
Finally, Kevin Martin and I headed over to this super classic .12a called Everybody Needs Friends and went for the lead. After Kevin got the first two bolts, he came down for a rest and I ended up working it through the fourth and to the anchors. Definitely was a really cool route and really is cool since only a year ago my life's goal in climbing was the send a .12a, and what do you know...it's getting pretty close. Might have to do some readjusting!
Here are some pictures from the climbs!
Getting ready to start:
Opening moves:
Almost to the first bolt:
About to clip the second bolt and then start the crux:
Through the business at a rest of sorts:
Moving up towards the slabby topout:
Clipping the chains and red pointing!:
Cruddy, bad idea, .11+ warmup:
How I ended up looking most of the time:
Saturday, August 30, 2008
Jackson
Well today was actually quite an awesome day at Jackson. BC, Will, their friend Chris, and I all headed out last night and camped out and then were up bright and early around 7 a.m. so that we could take advantage of the best temps of the day.
First things first. After much insistence on my behalf, we went and I gave Lovely Arete a go right off the bat. No luck though. However, after watching BC climb it I found out some new beta that should definitely ease the crux section for me and make the send considerably easier...when it does happen. Next, I went ahead and top roped Hidden Treasure, .12a, again and made some considerable progress by only falling/taking a total of like 4 times. If I keep going at it hard it should be doable by the end of the fall or early spring.
Next, we headed over to the Royal Arch Wall area and got on a few more climbs. One of which was Arch Angel a .10a that I was able to flash. It's a pretty cool climb. Then I top roped a .9 and an .11b that I got shut down on hard core last fall but now is actually pretty easy. I might try and give it a go on lead here sometime soon. Who knows?!
Next, we ran back over to Spleef Peak where I was able to get another send, this time though it was the .11a variation of Master Marley in which you use the Arete for the most of the way towards the first bolt and then you pull on to the face. Pretty cool route and really balancy. Next I bumped over and gave another .11b that gave me some trouble last year a shot and man, it is still really hard. I figured some different stuff out though from watching Mike climb it so I think that it should go sometime in the near future. Finally, for myself atleast, I went over with some people and tried bouldering the start to a .12a called Digital Delicassend. Pretty cool route that is pretty much all two finger pockets until you get to some small edges, but I was able to make it pretty close to the edges where it would get considerably easier. I definitely think that this could possibly go this fall too so we'll have to see!
I might be heading back out to Jackson on Monday so if I do I'll be sure to update things if there are any new developments and pretty much even if there aren't!
First things first. After much insistence on my behalf, we went and I gave Lovely Arete a go right off the bat. No luck though. However, after watching BC climb it I found out some new beta that should definitely ease the crux section for me and make the send considerably easier...when it does happen. Next, I went ahead and top roped Hidden Treasure, .12a, again and made some considerable progress by only falling/taking a total of like 4 times. If I keep going at it hard it should be doable by the end of the fall or early spring.
Next, we headed over to the Royal Arch Wall area and got on a few more climbs. One of which was Arch Angel a .10a that I was able to flash. It's a pretty cool climb. Then I top roped a .9 and an .11b that I got shut down on hard core last fall but now is actually pretty easy. I might try and give it a go on lead here sometime soon. Who knows?!
Next, we ran back over to Spleef Peak where I was able to get another send, this time though it was the .11a variation of Master Marley in which you use the Arete for the most of the way towards the first bolt and then you pull on to the face. Pretty cool route and really balancy. Next I bumped over and gave another .11b that gave me some trouble last year a shot and man, it is still really hard. I figured some different stuff out though from watching Mike climb it so I think that it should go sometime in the near future. Finally, for myself atleast, I went over with some people and tried bouldering the start to a .12a called Digital Delicassend. Pretty cool route that is pretty much all two finger pockets until you get to some small edges, but I was able to make it pretty close to the edges where it would get considerably easier. I definitely think that this could possibly go this fall too so we'll have to see!
I might be heading back out to Jackson on Monday so if I do I'll be sure to update things if there are any new developments and pretty much even if there aren't!
Friday, August 29, 2008
Jackson last weekend...Jackson this weekend!
Well last Saturday I went out to Jackson Falls with a good sized group of people from school as well as my good buddy Mike. It was great to get to see everyone again and finally see some different stone AND realize how much my new found technique is not applicable to the sandstone at JF. lol Mike still whipped my ass too. I guess a lot of things still haven't changed.
I got to RP a cool .10a called Master Marley though which was cool, and I was also able to give Lovely Arete a shot again but I just couldn't pull it out. Then we swung over and top roped Hidden Treasure which is a .12a. Damn it's hard.
Well this weekend I'm going to be cruising back out with Mike and as well as some Nashville peeps. Should be a good time and I hope I'm able to pull it together and get a send on Lovely!
I got to RP a cool .10a called Master Marley though which was cool, and I was also able to give Lovely Arete a shot again but I just couldn't pull it out. Then we swung over and top roped Hidden Treasure which is a .12a. Damn it's hard.
Well this weekend I'm going to be cruising back out with Mike and as well as some Nashville peeps. Should be a good time and I hope I'm able to pull it together and get a send on Lovely!
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