Well, unreported things have happened. Friday of last week I went to Jackson Falls with Taylor and his sister Meredith. It was fun and we ended up going swimming in the pool created by the main falls. The water was COLD! It was pretty nice though and a good way to spend the day since I was especially hung over.
Saturday, I went down to Clarksville and met up with Chris and Carmen. They were unfortunately extremely hung over that day and we got some drizzel so not a helluva lot happened then. I was finally able to get Ritz Bitz .10c ticked though. Good fun and it is definitely one of the best down there. I also threw a TR down on Prelude to Harvest .12a and proceeded to get my buttocks kicked on it. It has some super hard undercling moves and that is definitely an area that I need to get some work done on. We pretty much went home after that.
Things have been busy in Murray this week though with it being Earth Week. Today we had the distinguished Jerome Ringo come and speak today for Earth Day. Aweome! Saturday I'm taking both of the Praxxis exams so it is gonna be a helluva day. Not looking forward to it.
On a side note though I'm gonna be flying to Jacksonville, FL on May 8th to pick up a new vehicle. My buddy Scott from my first two summers at Sanborn decided to give me a steal of a price on his old Jeep so I'm gonna fly down, hang out, and drive pretty much directly to Colorado. The suck. At least I will have A/C and cruise control.
Been hitting the training on the fingers pretty hard the last few days. I'm wanting to really get some contact strength up so I can crush those thin granite edges in the park!
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Jackson Falls 4.15.2009
Ended up getting to make the mid-week trip out to Jackson again today. Man, it was really nice too. It was Sean, Taylor, and I.
We started out warming up on some of the nice moderates at Reefer Madness and then moved on over to Lovely Tower. There I went ahead and successfully sent Hidden Treasure 5.12a again. It felt sooo good. Taylor and Sean both gave it some time on TR. Then we moved over to some other bouldering and I worked on OBD V6 for a bit. I figured out a good deal of the moves, but linking them all together is going to be quite difficult. After that we went and hit Group Therapy for a quick lap. It felt good too. I was able to take my time, get some good rests and finish strong. It was nice to be able to tick that at the end of such a hard day. I'm finally getting some endurance!
Looks like we'll be heading back out early on Friday and will probably camp and try to get some climbing in before the storms hit on Saturday!
We started out warming up on some of the nice moderates at Reefer Madness and then moved on over to Lovely Tower. There I went ahead and successfully sent Hidden Treasure 5.12a again. It felt sooo good. Taylor and Sean both gave it some time on TR. Then we moved over to some other bouldering and I worked on OBD V6 for a bit. I figured out a good deal of the moves, but linking them all together is going to be quite difficult. After that we went and hit Group Therapy for a quick lap. It felt good too. I was able to take my time, get some good rests and finish strong. It was nice to be able to tick that at the end of such a hard day. I'm finally getting some endurance!
Looks like we'll be heading back out early on Friday and will probably camp and try to get some climbing in before the storms hit on Saturday!
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Jackson Falls 4.11.2009
Well, the day was pretty uneventful honestly. We warmed up quickly on The Sophomore which was soaking wet. Then we went down and got on Flingin' Hog 5.11a. I got tunnel vision and blew the flash at the anchors. Phenomenal. However, it is nice to see that I am developing a bit of endurance. Now if I can just keep myself calm enough to not freak out and make careless mistakes. The head games is sooo important. The weather is looking decent for Wednesday so we might have a repeat mid-week trip out. Here are some goals for Wednesday and the week to come!
- Endurance: A Lap on Group, and go back and finish Flingin' Hog.
- Finish the little V2 problem by Arete Syndrome.
- Bagpiper V5
- Everybody Needs Friends 5.12a
- Give Detox Mountain 5.12a a few good burns.
- Onsight the 5.11a at the Gallery I can't think of.
I'm sure there will be a few more goals to set for the weekend. Should the weather stay good it will be a super nice weekend. Carmen and Chris are coming up from Nashville and Drew is coming South from Illinois State. He's finally strong again.
- Endurance: A Lap on Group, and go back and finish Flingin' Hog.
- Finish the little V2 problem by Arete Syndrome.
- Bagpiper V5
- Everybody Needs Friends 5.12a
- Give Detox Mountain 5.12a a few good burns.
- Onsight the 5.11a at the Gallery I can't think of.
I'm sure there will be a few more goals to set for the weekend. Should the weather stay good it will be a super nice weekend. Carmen and Chris are coming up from Nashville and Drew is coming South from Illinois State. He's finally strong again.
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Wiggity Wednesday
Wednesday was a day...a day of sends! The list runs down like this.
- Warm up on pretty much everything on Reefer Madness boulder.
- Send this mantle on Reefer. Pretty hard. V3?
- Move to Industry 5.12a and send first go, setting the draws.
- Go to Group Therapy 5.10c send first go, setting the draws. (Overhung pumpy climbing, "not my style.")
- Sent Arete Syndrom V5.
- Sent Matt's Sloper Problem V3, in 4-5 goes.
It was definitely a good day and I hope that I can make it out with such a cool crew again in during the middle of the week!
Here is some video of the things that went down!
Jackson Falls - The Wednesday Edition from Logan Smith on Vimeo.
Looks like I'll probably be getting out with Mike to Draper's Bluff on Saturday too. Hopefully there will be some interesting things to come from that venture!
- Warm up on pretty much everything on Reefer Madness boulder.
- Send this mantle on Reefer. Pretty hard. V3?
- Move to Industry 5.12a and send first go, setting the draws.
- Go to Group Therapy 5.10c send first go, setting the draws. (Overhung pumpy climbing, "not my style.")
- Sent Arete Syndrom V5.
- Sent Matt's Sloper Problem V3, in 4-5 goes.
It was definitely a good day and I hope that I can make it out with such a cool crew again in during the middle of the week!
Here is some video of the things that went down!
Jackson Falls - The Wednesday Edition from Logan Smith on Vimeo.
Looks like I'll probably be getting out with Mike to Draper's Bluff on Saturday too. Hopefully there will be some interesting things to come from that venture!
Monday, April 6, 2009
Video
Not too much substance but there is a little bit of videoing that was done at least.
A Few Moderates From The Falls... from Logan Smith on Vimeo.
Also, it is looking like I'm gonna get to head out to Jackson for a quick afternoon on Wednesday. I'm hoping to tick off Industry real quickly, knock out Arete Syndrome, and then have enough energy to run a few laps on Group Therapy. Who knows I might even try to send Psycho Therapy too. I might just go crazy!
A Few Moderates From The Falls... from Logan Smith on Vimeo.
Also, it is looking like I'm gonna get to head out to Jackson for a quick afternoon on Wednesday. I'm hoping to tick off Industry real quickly, knock out Arete Syndrome, and then have enough energy to run a few laps on Group Therapy. Who knows I might even try to send Psycho Therapy too. I might just go crazy!
Sunday, April 5, 2009
Saturday at Jackson
Well, I ended up getting just a little later start of Friday than I had hoped but it was still a great day. A friend from school, Sean, that hadn't climbed before ended up heading out with me too. We made it to Jackson close to 5 and immediately went down the rope to get after some bouldering. Warmed up on a boulder I hadn't ever hit and tried a few little interesting problems. Nothing too difficult though. Check out a few of the problems I wanted to get some beta on by Yosemite slab but they were all wet, so we moved on over to Arete Syndrome. I ended up getting darn close and figured out some good beta. By the end I was consistently falling right at the last move. After that we called it quits and went up to set camp.
Saturday brought a nice nights sleep and a fair amount of soreness unfortunately. We started the day warming up on Earthbound Misfits 5.10a, a super-classic at the falls. Sean killed it, only falling twice. It was pretty awesome. Then we went over to this little 5.11b called Hue-Cool (Hue is pronounced like the word Way), and I was able to get the flash of that one. It was pretty freaking awesome too. Basically, it is just a 2 bolt boulder problem. It starts with some hard moves to a big throw, then a small traverse on a ledge. From the ledge you gain a large hueco and move up to another nice pocket and clip. From there the holds get worse and the crux is really finding a decent enough stance to clip the bolts from. I found one but it was sucky, and I'm sure quite ugly.
After this we decided to go back and do a little bouldering, and I was psyched to try Arete Syndrome again. First go I almost nailed it! It'll definitely go next time! We then moved on a did some more bouldering by Yosemite Slab since that stuff was now dry. I tried the supposed V7, but couldn't decide whether I was starting correctly since the problem didn't feel any harder than the V3 that is just to the left of it. I ended up repeating that V3 Cold Fusion again. After that we ran down to the Hidden Peaks area and Chris and Sean got on Cheerio Bowl and I flailed on some peoples Top Rope on Detox Mountain .12a quickly. I think I had like 6 falls. Pretty disappointing. I think it would be a little better if i wasn't so wiped. We ended up the day doing some of the easy stuff on Reefer Madness boulders then.
I've got a video coming soon!
Saturday brought a nice nights sleep and a fair amount of soreness unfortunately. We started the day warming up on Earthbound Misfits 5.10a, a super-classic at the falls. Sean killed it, only falling twice. It was pretty awesome. Then we went over to this little 5.11b called Hue-Cool (Hue is pronounced like the word Way), and I was able to get the flash of that one. It was pretty freaking awesome too. Basically, it is just a 2 bolt boulder problem. It starts with some hard moves to a big throw, then a small traverse on a ledge. From the ledge you gain a large hueco and move up to another nice pocket and clip. From there the holds get worse and the crux is really finding a decent enough stance to clip the bolts from. I found one but it was sucky, and I'm sure quite ugly.
After this we decided to go back and do a little bouldering, and I was psyched to try Arete Syndrome again. First go I almost nailed it! It'll definitely go next time! We then moved on a did some more bouldering by Yosemite Slab since that stuff was now dry. I tried the supposed V7, but couldn't decide whether I was starting correctly since the problem didn't feel any harder than the V3 that is just to the left of it. I ended up repeating that V3 Cold Fusion again. After that we ran down to the Hidden Peaks area and Chris and Sean got on Cheerio Bowl and I flailed on some peoples Top Rope on Detox Mountain .12a quickly. I think I had like 6 falls. Pretty disappointing. I think it would be a little better if i wasn't so wiped. We ended up the day doing some of the easy stuff on Reefer Madness boulders then.
I've got a video coming soon!
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Shikadang.
Well, after much fretting, sweating, and betting against it, I have a climbing partner for the weekend! I'm pretty happy with that little fact. Thankfully, I had made plans with my buddy Chris from Nashville like two weeks ago and had forgotten all about it. So he is going to be coming up Friday afternoon/evening and we'll get in a FULL day on Saturday since the weather is looking to be pretty dicey on Sunday. So here are a few ideal goals for the weekend.
Friday:
- Roll in early afternoon
- Fusion V6 - a like two move extension to Cold Fusion that I did last time at The Falls. (Kind of strange too because those moves don't make it twice as hard. We'll see.
- Get some beta sussed out for Bagpiper V5.
- Get beta on Footwiser V8.
- Get beta and maybe sent an Unnamed V7 by Yosemite Slab.
- Suss some beta on Arete Syndrome Left V5.
- Not be totally worked for Saturday.
Saturday:
- Group Therapy .10b
- Yuppie with a Gun .11a (Onsight?)
- Industry .12a (Should go with me setting the draws)
- If I still feel good give Detox Mountain a shot.
- If I still feel good, night bouldering.
Big list of things to do, I know. I'm still gonna be taking it pretty easy too though with the finger. I hope things work out well. I want to be in the best shape possible for the summer! I'll be sure to get after some video too. Expect some footage when I get back!
Friday:
- Roll in early afternoon
- Fusion V6 - a like two move extension to Cold Fusion that I did last time at The Falls. (Kind of strange too because those moves don't make it twice as hard. We'll see.
- Get some beta sussed out for Bagpiper V5.
- Get beta on Footwiser V8.
- Get beta and maybe sent an Unnamed V7 by Yosemite Slab.
- Suss some beta on Arete Syndrome Left V5.
- Not be totally worked for Saturday.
Saturday:
- Group Therapy .10b
- Yuppie with a Gun .11a (Onsight?)
- Industry .12a (Should go with me setting the draws)
- If I still feel good give Detox Mountain a shot.
- If I still feel good, night bouldering.
Big list of things to do, I know. I'm still gonna be taking it pretty easy too though with the finger. I hope things work out well. I want to be in the best shape possible for the summer! I'll be sure to get after some video too. Expect some footage when I get back!
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