Sunday, November 30, 2008
Wednesday, November 26, 2008
Last Weekend At Jackson Falls
Well Drew came in like I said, and I'll give a real quick re-cap:
Saturday:
Saturday:
- Cold
- Easy boulder problems sent.
- Hidden Treasure .12a, three goes. Failure.
- More failure on V3 boulder problem.
- Watch guy break ankle.
- Go to bed
Sunday:
- Sunshine
- Fail on .10b.
- Work on Everybody Needs Friends .12a. Fail 3 goes.
- Check out 4 acre fire someone set above falls, while scared to death of being shot by hunters.
- Go home
That was very brief I know, but I just waited way too long to try and give a reasonable update. I've made it home though now, and since being here I've already managed to totally screw up my mom's computer, and not be able to fix my car. Great times...not. Happy Thanksgiving!
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Monday, November 17, 2008
Today
I went to the gym today. Yuck. There were so many meatheads. Not climbing one weekend is making things rough.
Saturday, November 15, 2008
Jackson November 8-9
Well, it looks like I'm going to be spending my first entire weekend in Murray. Not too excited about that little fact, but it has already been a pretty nice experience since I was able to sleep in until 9:00 this morning! It was awesome! Now I'm making pancakes and going to do some homework and get some studying done. Anyways, on to the climbing events of last weekend...
Friday night, I headed up to Jackson with Mike C. and we hung out for a while and waited for Carmen and Chris, two friends from Nashville, to make it in. They came in, we hung out for a bit and then decided to turn in so we could have an early start on Saturday morning.
Saturday morning we were able to get down into the falls by 9:30. Promptly we went over to Royal Arch wall to do some warming up. I set up Deetle Dumps 5.8 and everone else gave it a run through on lead as well. Pretty awesome. At the top I went ahead and set up a TR on the .11c that is between Deetle Dumps and Arch Angel. I gave that like two goes on TR and have nearly figured out all the beta and it could possibly go clean here sometime in the near future. I also led up The Meanest Flower 5.9 which is a really cool climb! Just might be my favorite for the grade at Jackson. Next, we ran over to Lovely Tower and I sent Lovely Arete again, to get some draws set on Hidden Treasure .12a. I ended up giving Hidden two goes and while I didn't get the send I was able to get it both times with only one fall. I'm pretty psyched still, because hopefully it'll go sometime here in the near future. After that Carmen and Chris got in a few more climbs on Spleef and we called it a day. Oh AND Mike made it all the way through this gnarly .12d slab that was just put up a few weekends ago. Kudos to him. I didn't even want to consider trying that stuff.
Sunday, we woke up and headed down to Manky Alcove and warmed up on The Essence of Manky 5.9 and I ended up taking a few falls for Chris and Carmen so that they could get some good practice giving a good catch. After that Mike went up Creep Show .10a, and we also we up a new .10a/b that was put up on the outside arete. I also went down inbetween some climbing and did some bouldering with a few local guys and sent a few V2's. We ended up not really moving from this area all day and I climbed Creep show like 4 times but never got back on Access Denied .11c. After that we all went ahead and left as Chris needed to be back early to prepare for his trip to Ecuador!
It definitely was a pretty great weekend and I really hope that I can climb with that group of people again sometime here in the very near future. Was definitely my favorite time of the fall. Next weekend it's looking like Drew is going to come down from ISU and climb at Jackson with me and Carmen is looking at the possibility too. I think it could be another pretty awesome time. I'm definitely psyched to climb and hang w/ Drew again! We're even looking at the possibilities of a trip down to Horseshoe as soon as school is done for me in early December! Sooo much climbing to do!
Hope everyone is doing well and I'll be seeing most everyone here in the next two weeks!
Friday night, I headed up to Jackson with Mike C. and we hung out for a while and waited for Carmen and Chris, two friends from Nashville, to make it in. They came in, we hung out for a bit and then decided to turn in so we could have an early start on Saturday morning.
Saturday morning we were able to get down into the falls by 9:30. Promptly we went over to Royal Arch wall to do some warming up. I set up Deetle Dumps 5.8 and everone else gave it a run through on lead as well. Pretty awesome. At the top I went ahead and set up a TR on the .11c that is between Deetle Dumps and Arch Angel. I gave that like two goes on TR and have nearly figured out all the beta and it could possibly go clean here sometime in the near future. I also led up The Meanest Flower 5.9 which is a really cool climb! Just might be my favorite for the grade at Jackson. Next, we ran over to Lovely Tower and I sent Lovely Arete again, to get some draws set on Hidden Treasure .12a. I ended up giving Hidden two goes and while I didn't get the send I was able to get it both times with only one fall. I'm pretty psyched still, because hopefully it'll go sometime here in the near future. After that Carmen and Chris got in a few more climbs on Spleef and we called it a day. Oh AND Mike made it all the way through this gnarly .12d slab that was just put up a few weekends ago. Kudos to him. I didn't even want to consider trying that stuff.
Sunday, we woke up and headed down to Manky Alcove and warmed up on The Essence of Manky 5.9 and I ended up taking a few falls for Chris and Carmen so that they could get some good practice giving a good catch. After that Mike went up Creep Show .10a, and we also we up a new .10a/b that was put up on the outside arete. I also went down inbetween some climbing and did some bouldering with a few local guys and sent a few V2's. We ended up not really moving from this area all day and I climbed Creep show like 4 times but never got back on Access Denied .11c. After that we all went ahead and left as Chris needed to be back early to prepare for his trip to Ecuador!
It definitely was a pretty great weekend and I really hope that I can climb with that group of people again sometime here in the very near future. Was definitely my favorite time of the fall. Next weekend it's looking like Drew is going to come down from ISU and climb at Jackson with me and Carmen is looking at the possibility too. I think it could be another pretty awesome time. I'm definitely psyched to climb and hang w/ Drew again! We're even looking at the possibilities of a trip down to Horseshoe as soon as school is done for me in early December! Sooo much climbing to do!
Hope everyone is doing well and I'll be seeing most everyone here in the next two weeks!
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
Hump Day
Today has been like seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. I've finished nearly all of my practicum in one class, am completely done in another, and only have next week in the rest! After that there is going to only be about one week of school left and then I'll have the entire Christmas break for climbing and traveling for climbing! This weekend is looking like it's going to shape up to be great. A few friends are going to be coming up from Nashville to climb at J-Falls, I have some good projects to work on, and I'm feeling good and psyched after a work out today! We'll be seeing how the weekend goes!
Monday, November 3, 2008
J-Falls Weekend 11/1
Well like I said I was able to make it to Jackson Falls this weekend...again. This has pretty much been the most consistent thing in my life outside of school. I couldn't think of anything else better to be so consistent on either. Here is the breakdown of the days climbing...
Saturday:
Taylor and I made it in to The Falls at around 12 in the afternoon and quickly went down and warmed up at Spleef Peak on Through the Smoke 5.9 and Rattler 5.10a both really cool climbs. After that we went directly over to try Amoeba Brains a .10d that is really aesthetic but unfortunately sucks. I didn't come anywhere close to redpointing and after Taylor gave it a quick TR we quickly moved on over towards Battle Axe Tower. Once there I got on a cool .11b with amazing moves called Splinter Faction. Unfortunately though, I had the dumbest and wrongest beta possible and came down after flailing around trying to get to the 4th bolt for some time. After that some guys we just met up with gave it a few runs and both got it onsight. They also had TR setup on Viking Blood a .12c and Taylor and I were both able to give it a go. That this is freaking SWEET! I came no where close to getting it clean but it has some awesome moves and crimps! I dig crimps! Later that night Dave Downey ended up camping out with us and made Taylor and I look like sissys when we both insisted on going to bed at 8p.m. and then beatings us up in the mornging when we slept till 8:00 after the time change.
Cheerio Bowl:
The awesome rest on Cheerio Bowl:
Sunday:
Started out by heading down to The Gallery to try and warm-up. Didn't happen so we went over to Hidden Peaks and Warmed up on Stubborn Swede 5.8 and Cheerio Bowl 5.10a. Both are pretty classic routes for the area and good fun. After that I was able to give a TR go for on a .12a called Detox Mountain. It's amazing and so overhung and pumpy. I fell I think 4 or 5 times. It might go sometime in the spring if I can keep climbing as consistently as I am now. After that Taylor and I went over and started up on Access Denied .11c. I made it through very roughly too, but it has to be one of my favorite routes of the fall. It has some really great moves and it is all very vertical and crimpy. That's my style. I made it through that pretty sketchily though, and gave it a TR go again and found out all of the correct beta and can't wait to get back on it for a red point go!
Detox Mountain:
Next weekend it is looking like some friends of mine from Vanderbilt are going to be coming up for some climbing at J-Falls, which is guranteed to be an awesome time! I'm psyched and can't wait to take advantage of the inevitably awesome temperatures!
Saturday:
Taylor and I made it in to The Falls at around 12 in the afternoon and quickly went down and warmed up at Spleef Peak on Through the Smoke 5.9 and Rattler 5.10a both really cool climbs. After that we went directly over to try Amoeba Brains a .10d that is really aesthetic but unfortunately sucks. I didn't come anywhere close to redpointing and after Taylor gave it a quick TR we quickly moved on over towards Battle Axe Tower. Once there I got on a cool .11b with amazing moves called Splinter Faction. Unfortunately though, I had the dumbest and wrongest beta possible and came down after flailing around trying to get to the 4th bolt for some time. After that some guys we just met up with gave it a few runs and both got it onsight. They also had TR setup on Viking Blood a .12c and Taylor and I were both able to give it a go. That this is freaking SWEET! I came no where close to getting it clean but it has some awesome moves and crimps! I dig crimps! Later that night Dave Downey ended up camping out with us and made Taylor and I look like sissys when we both insisted on going to bed at 8p.m. and then beatings us up in the mornging when we slept till 8:00 after the time change.
Cheerio Bowl:
The awesome rest on Cheerio Bowl:
Sunday:
Started out by heading down to The Gallery to try and warm-up. Didn't happen so we went over to Hidden Peaks and Warmed up on Stubborn Swede 5.8 and Cheerio Bowl 5.10a. Both are pretty classic routes for the area and good fun. After that I was able to give a TR go for on a .12a called Detox Mountain. It's amazing and so overhung and pumpy. I fell I think 4 or 5 times. It might go sometime in the spring if I can keep climbing as consistently as I am now. After that Taylor and I went over and started up on Access Denied .11c. I made it through very roughly too, but it has to be one of my favorite routes of the fall. It has some really great moves and it is all very vertical and crimpy. That's my style. I made it through that pretty sketchily though, and gave it a TR go again and found out all of the correct beta and can't wait to get back on it for a red point go!
Detox Mountain:
Next weekend it is looking like some friends of mine from Vanderbilt are going to be coming up for some climbing at J-Falls, which is guranteed to be an awesome time! I'm psyched and can't wait to take advantage of the inevitably awesome temperatures!
Saturday, November 1, 2008
"Cause I'm leavin' on a jet plane..."
Well not really. But I am about to pack up into Taylor's Jeep and we're off to J-Falls for the rest of the weekend! I'll be sure to update things when we return! Oh yeah! I tied for 11th in that comp in nashville out of like 31 people. I suppose I'm happy with that.
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