J-Falls Weekend 11/1

Well like I said I was able to make it to Jackson Falls this weekend...again. This has pretty much been the most consistent thing in my life outside of school. I couldn't think of anything else better to be so consistent on either. Here is the breakdown of the days climbing...

Saturday:

Taylor and I made it in to The Falls at around 12 in the afternoon and quickly went down and warmed up at Spleef Peak on Through the Smoke 5.9 and Rattler 5.10a both really cool climbs. After that we went directly over to try Amoeba Brains a .10d that is really aesthetic but unfortunately sucks. I didn't come anywhere close to redpointing and after Taylor gave it a quick TR we quickly moved on over towards Battle Axe Tower. Once there I got on a cool .11b with amazing moves called Splinter Faction. Unfortunately though, I had the dumbest and wrongest beta possible and came down after flailing around trying to get to the 4th bolt for some time. After that some guys we just met up with gave it a few runs and both got it onsight. They also had TR setup on Viking Blood a .12c and Taylor and I were both able to give it a go. That this is freaking SWEET! I came no where close to getting it clean but it has some awesome moves and crimps! I dig crimps! Later that night Dave Downey ended up camping out with us and made Taylor and I look like sissys when we both insisted on going to bed at 8p.m. and then beatings us up in the mornging when we slept till 8:00 after the time change.

Cheerio Bowl:


The awesome rest on Cheerio Bowl:


Sunday:

Started out by heading down to The Gallery to try and warm-up. Didn't happen so we went over to Hidden Peaks and Warmed up on Stubborn Swede 5.8 and Cheerio Bowl 5.10a. Both are pretty classic routes for the area and good fun. After that I was able to give a TR go for on a .12a called Detox Mountain. It's amazing and so overhung and pumpy. I fell I think 4 or 5 times. It might go sometime in the spring if I can keep climbing as consistently as I am now. After that Taylor and I went over and started up on Access Denied .11c. I made it through very roughly too, but it has to be one of my favorite routes of the fall. It has some really great moves and it is all very vertical and crimpy. That's my style. I made it through that pretty sketchily though, and gave it a TR go again and found out all of the correct beta and can't wait to get back on it for a red point go!

Detox Mountain:


Next weekend it is looking like some friends of mine from Vanderbilt are going to be coming up for some climbing at J-Falls, which is guranteed to be an awesome time! I'm psyched and can't wait to take advantage of the inevitably awesome temperatures!