Detox Mountain

Another goal achieved!

Went to Jackson Saturday and Sunday with the intent to work a few other things but this line is just too awesome! Gave it a few goes Saturday but nothing was happening. I'm blaming the red wine...

Sunday came out cruised it nearly through the crux and then blew all my energy trying to clip a bolt (why I will probably always be a boulderer). Second go was awesome and everything just flowed. A few minutes later I found myself at the chains!

Here is a video we shot of a burn on Saturday. I ended up just editing it all together just for a vague idea of how the route works. Tons of shaking out on jugs and unexciting climbing! Be prepared for a 5 minute boredom fest!

Detox Mountain 5.12a from Logan Smith on Vimeo.

Everybody Needs Friends

I was able to get up to Jackson Falls this past weekend with K-Bro and had a pretty good time. Saturday, I contemplated on hitting up Energizer but just couldn't get into it since there had been so much moisture the week before. It was a good thing. Instead we ran over to the Beaver Wall and I thought that I might give an old project Everybody Needs Friends 5.12a a little bit of work.

I hung the draws quickly and on the second go had already managed to pull a one hang on it. 7 goes later though I just couldn't pull out the send. Here is a little video of attempt number 5 that Matt Guemple, a climber who has been around the falls since I was born, took on his very nice HD camera! Thanks Matt!

Sunday, we warmed up quickly and then ran right over to Everybody Needs Friends again and I was able to finally pull out the send on the second go. It was a pretty awesome feeling! So nice to get back into the route game and be sending some 12's the second weekend back on!

Next weekend I'm hoping to make some progress on Detox Mountain .12a and hopefully take care of business on Cranial Implosion .12a!

Energizer

It looks like I might have suckered some people into heading to Jackson with me tomorrow and Sunday for a little bit of climbing! The weather is just going to be so awesome! Hopefully the humidity will stay low too and I'll be able to draw a small amount of endurance from that last weeks climbing AND be able to make some good links on Energizer. Maybe a send? I'll have the camera in tow!

A few more from Energizer last weekend...

Hot Hot Heat...

Spent Friday afternoon through Sunday at Jackson Falls doing a little bit of climbing, but...it was HOT!

Friday I hiked into a new bouldering area called The Roost which was less than impressive. There were two problems that I really wanted to scope out The Oriel and Screaming Eagle, both of which were too ridiculous to attempt in the heat. And I'm not strong enough to finish either one of them as things stand right now. The rest of the place was kind of junked up and none of the problems were particularly attention grabbing. Later that night Mike, Calvin, and Jordan all rolled in and we got in a bouldering session at Reefer Madness which was nice in spite of the ridiculous heat.

Saturday was another beastly hot day but I had my mind set on getting on some harder stuff regardless of the temps so I worked to make it happen. We all warmed up quickly on Earthbound Misfit 5.10a and then I quickly busted over to Energizer 5.12a. It is siiick! It is 5 bolts of pumpy overhung arete climbing. It was definitely one of the coolest climbs that I think I've been on so far at Jackson. Here are some photos.

The crux, which moves off of a jug into a slopey crimp into a hand foot match, then a bad pinch with the left and a bump into a left hand gaston. With the gaston then you fall right hand into a good pinch and clip and move on into the last pumpy and short sequence to the anchors!

Sunday was spent running laps on Group Therapy 5.10c in hopes for a little bit of endurance! I want to send some harder stuff! I'm psyched for the fall and can't wait to get out and do some more awesome climbing!

Jackson This Weekend

Heading to J-Falls this weekend with Mike, Kevin, and possibly Calvin. A good strong crew. I'm really psyched to get on rope, and I have a lot of hard projects in mind that I'd love to try and tick. I think that I'm going to be doing some bouldering on Friday night too so here are some goals for inspection/sendage!

Boulders
-OBD V6
-Screaming Eagle V6
-The Oriel V5

Routes
-Energizer 5.12a
-Everybody Needs Friends 5.12a
-Cranial Implosion 5.12a
-Here Come the Snakes 5.12c
-Psychotherapy 5.10b
-Yuppie With a Gun 5.11a

I know that is a little ambitious for one weekend, especially since I've yet to send on .12 in a day, but I just really want to suss out some beta on the harder stuff, and keep pressing my limits. I've already been on Everybody Needs Friends and Cranial, so I know the beta and there is a decent potential if I can catch the good conditions sometime during the weekend. It is only supposed to be 92 all weekend...

Chaos Canyon and The Beach - Video

Here is some footage that I put together of a few sends from last weekend and one from the park!

Chaos Canyon/The Beach from Logan Smith on Vimeo.