!!!!

Found my video camera! I'll try and get some footage of Lost Innocence this weekend...if I remember.

Progress

This last weekend was one of the most beautiful fall weekends I've seen at Jackson. Perfect temps, no humidity, and tons of awesome people made for a great time!

On Saturday I hopped on one of the most amazing routes that is probably at The Falls, Lost Innocence .12c. It is sustained, bouldery, and very aesthetic. I managed to two hang it twice, so hopefully with some workouts this week I'll get back next weekend and be able to finish the thing off.

Sunday, I went down to The Ranch area with Drew, who was in for the weekend. He had a few goes on Space Cowboy and I moved a little further south and got on Darwin's Theory, a super cool .12a. I managed a 4th go send and was very pleased with how fun the route was!

Big time congrats this weekend though for Kevin Martin! He sent his first .12a on Saturday and then turned around and did Darwin's Theory second go! Crushing!

So psyched for my last two weekends at Jackson before Belize! Gonna get worked and then enjoy the sun and the rest!

A Few Pictures...

A few pictures that a new friend Phillip took the last day I was a Jackson climbing! Coincidentally, both of these routes are ones that were bolted by Phillip.

On the crux of Goin' Rogue, 5.12c: Pocket with the left hand, bad slopey crimp with the right, and crummy feet, then a toss up to a small flat edge.

Who Let the Snakes Out? 5.10b/c:

Last week's sends

Here is the tick list from my amazing last week at Jackson!

Goin' Rogue - 5.12c

Space Cowboy - 5.12b

Velvet Green - 5.12a - 2nd Go

Shock Therapy - 5.12a - 2nd Go

Umbrella Girl - 5.12a - 2nd Go

Cowboy's and Cross-dressers - 5.12a

Stand & Deliver - 5.11b - Flash

Yuppie with a Gun - 5.11a - Onsight

Wild at Heart - 5.11a - Onsight

Who Let the Snakes Out? - 5.10c - Onsight - 2nd Ascent

The Walrus - 5.10b - Onsight

Possum Grits - 5.9+

I'm extremely satisfied with the week, and I hope that I'm able to carry over this trend the next few weekends. Only 3 left until I leave for Belize!

Deep Throat - 5.10b - Flash

Mid-Week...

I've been sending....

.12b

- Cro-Magnon Warrior - J-Falls

- Tasmanian Devil - J-Falls

- Space Cowboy - J-Falls - 2nd Go on Saturday!

- Remove La Ropa - J-Falls/Promised Land - Upgraded and off the list.

- Balance of Power - J-Falls/Promised Land - Upgraded and off the list.

.12a
- Hidden Treasure - J-Falls
- Everybody Needs Friends - J-Falls
- Detox Mountain - J-Falls
- Energizer - J-Falls
- Cranial Implosion - J-Falls
- Cowboys and Crossdressers - J-Falls - 3rd Go on Saturday
- Team Honda - J-Falls/Promised Land
- Industry - J-Falls***
- Umbrella Girl - J-Falls - 2nd Go!

.11d
- The Vow - J-Falls
- The Reckoning - J-Falls

.11c
- Access Denied - J-Falls
- The Twist - J-Falls
- Blue Velvet - J-Falls

.11b
- Splinter Faction - J-Falls
- Stand and Deliver - J-Falls - Onsight
- Fancy Feet - J-Falls

.11a
- Captain Crunch - J-Falls
- Yuppie with a Gun - J-Falls - Onsight
- Horseshoes and Handgrenades - HCR
- Flingin' Hog - J-Falls

.10d
- Fragile Egos/Into the Sun - J-Falls - Failed at Onsight
- King's Jester - J-Falls - Onsight
- Wild at Heart - J-Falls - Onsight

.10c
- Group Therapy - J-Falls
- The Minstrel - J-Falls

.10b
- Psychotherapy - J-Falls

Past Weeekend...

Went to Jackson again this weekend, and I can gladly say that the climbing season has officially arrived! Temps in the upper 60's and low 70's all weekend made the rock nice and sticky and it was great to meet a ton of new psyched strong climbers.

On Saturday I hopped on one of my long term goals, Space Cowboy 5.12b. All I can say is that .12b is considerably harder than .12a. It still blows my mind thinking about the difference. I started out rapping in and hanging the quickdraws. First go, I managed a mediocre 8 falls/takes, but fired the crux sequence first try. Second go, I knocked it down to 5 takes/falls. Third go, I was happy to get it down to 3, one of which could have been avoided if I stuck a longer quickdraw on. So I'm sitting at two takes basically. I think I could definitely one hang the thing, and then a send would only be a short matter of time after that. Maybe in a month...

Sunday, I got out early, warmed up, and ran right over to Cro-Magnon Warrior, a .12b also. Setting the draws I think I eeked out just 8 takes/falls, and got nearly no beta for the whole climb. What makes the beta so hard is that Cro-Magnon climbs a vertical water drainage seam and has some super burly power/layback moves that will stretch the biceps to their limit. At the same time you're just pasting your feet onto nothing to keep the pressure on your hands, and yourself from falling. I was feeling it quite strongly after the first go, but sucked it up and went again and sloppily fell and hung 4 times.

I'll take the small amount of progress though, and I'm super psyched for these two routes. Fall break here at the school starts next Saturday and I'm going to have an entire week off! Tons of time to get some projects sent hopefully!