Friday, February 26, 2010

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Uncut Yogi

Didn't send but here are a few shots from Max of me on the super classic V6 Uncut Yogi.



Had a pretty good day yesterday. Was able to send 3 V5s in one day. Definitely the best day of climbing I've had down here. I was also able to tick off several super classic easier lines. These are the days of climbing that I live for!


Thursday, February 18, 2010

New Pictures: Hueco the Post-Haircut Era

Looking off to the north from the summit boulders atop North Mountain.


Groupie Alert, the coolest V2 that I've ever done. Even better than Ghetto Simulator.







Sticking the move, catching the swing, and sending Daily Dick Dose. It was 70 that day.






More waiting outside of the gate. The rock is right there just teasing us.


Another one of the must do problems: Mexican Chicken. So hard and pumpy.



The super classic Nobody Here Gets out Alive. Evidently when this problem was first done there was a bed of Prickly Pear Cactus covering all of the ground beneath. Needless to say, falling was not an option.


New Pictures: Hueco the Pre-Haircut Era

Here are some pictures from the pre-haircut era of Hueco Tanks.

Dilated Pupils: Classic problem and one of the few times
I've actually been able to mantle out a problem down here.



Sorting out the moves on Daily Dick Dose.



Sending the super classic King Kobra. One of my all time favorite boulders.




New Pictures: Arkansas

Here are some pictures that I've just been able to snag from Brian Martin from a day we spent at Fountain Red back in Arkansas. Psyched to have B. down here in Hueco with me...even though he dislocated his shoulder...again.


Here is how not to fall on Always Lead the Possum. There was a huge water drip coming from the rock right where my pad should have been, so the plan was to just move the pad when I got to that spot so things wouldn't get soaked...it didn't happen and I landed right on my right butt cheek.



Here is how it is supposed to go on Always Lead the Possum.




A few pictures from a cool pinch problem that I couldn't quite finish.





Sunday, February 14, 2010

The end is drawing nigh...



Well the weeks down in Hueco have been flying by and the psych is as high as ever. Things are starting to change around here though; people are leaving, the spring winds are blowing in, and the temps are starting to get a little warmer. I'm craving a little bit cooler temps.

I've also been doing some serious projecting here during the last little bit, and I've been forced to narrow down my list of projects that I listed earlier. I've also decided that I might not be worrying so much about doing things in the backcountry, and just focus on North Mountain for the remainder of this trip.

Things that are getting priority are:

Daily Dick Dose V7
Mexican Chicken V6
Baby Martini V6

If I can leave Hueco ticking these three problems I'll definitely feel that I've had some good successes during the trip.

I'm also looking at leaving out from Hueco around the 27th of February and heading up to Winter Park and hanging with Lane for a week or so. After that I'm gonna move on over to Estes Park for the following week to get settled, and then training for work starts on March the 15th. It is going to be nice to have a little bit of an income again!

Here is a link to a few new photos that Brian has taken since he's been here.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/brianclimbark/sets/72157623433221186/





Ghetto Simulator - V2


Dilated Pupils - V4

The Final Moves of Baby Martini V6. Soooo epically close.

Monday, February 8, 2010

Looking Good

Well, after 5 consecutive days of rest, 2 crummy days on, and one more day of rest, I think that I'm somewhere back to where I was before I hurt my finger. Definitely not 100% quite yet, but the thing is darn close.

Today was a great day too. Went out with my buddy Max and just cruised around. I was also able to get some new sends today which makes the last three days of torture (since I wasn't sending) all worthwhile.

Definitely re-psyched, and will be even more so tonight. My buddy Brian is going to be making it in a little later this evening with some more friends and there is going to be an amazing crew hanging around!

Monday, February 1, 2010

Ouch...


Well, I'm on a slight break from climbing right now since a small incident when I was last out on Saturday. They day had been going pretty well with a send of a highball that I'd contemplated doing since I got here, and then with a tick of one of my listed items, 100 Proof Roof.

Feeling pretty good, and psyched about the day we headed over to get on some of the harder things on my must do list, Baby Face and Daily Dick Dose. I flailed on Daily for a bit and then decided that I'd give Baby Face a shot. I made some quick progress and was feeling pretty good about the problem. Then, I pulled on and heard the dreaded crunch from my hand, and had some pretty sharp pains through the palm of my hand. It turns out to be nothing serious, just needs a few days of rest and some slow rehab for a few more days, and then hopefully I'll be back at pulling decent for the rest of the trip.

I still ended up getting on a climb after the injury at the end of the day though, another climb on the list, Ghetto Simulator. Ghetto is a 30-35 ft. V2 that pulls through huge jugs up to a crimpy top-out. I was psyched to flash this beast and not really be pumped. Definitely might be something to head back to for some laps to try and keep my endurance up!

Either way, the injury has provided me with the time to sit on the computer and do some looking for jobs, get better at ping pong, and look for more jobs. We'll have to see what is in the cards!

Here are some copped photos of the problems that I've been working and such.

Ghetto Simulator V2:


100 Proof Roof V3:


Daily Dick Dose V7:


Baby Face V7: