Sporting and a New Boulder

So Sunday was a day off for me so a few of us from the Y headed up to Prospect Mountain to do some sport climbing. It was really a pretty nice day. We warmed up on the same 10.c, named Suburban Hangover. That route is pretty scary, and since we don't have a stick clip the first person to lead has to risk a 15 foot drop onto less than desirable terrain on the 10.c crux of the route. I've yet to lead this route but I definitely plan to next time out to Prospect if we can figure out a way to clip that first bolt before hand. I don't feel like decking.

Next, we worked on a really cool 11.b, The Damage Done, that I think I should be able to lead up pretty easily next time. The main crux of the problem is pulling a pretty big roof on small crimps and thin feet. After there you have a moderate 5.10 crux on a slabby wall section to the anchors. It's a beautiful line and I'm pretty psyched to get back on it the next time out.

Lastly, we worked an amazing 11.d variation of a route called Momentary Lapse of Ethics 11.a. This line is everything you could ask for in a sport route. Scary, bolted well, and good sustained areas of climbing. The 11.d crux starts in on this tricky lie back section on decent holds then moves up into some small and very sharp crimps then you throw with a dead point to a moderate rail, match, then head out to the anchors on more small crips and in my opinion bad feet. I've kind of decided for this route to be my project for the summer and I would love to get a send by August the 8th.

Yesterday though I decided was a rest day...until some of the guys got excited about a new boulder on the Y's property that has an amazing dyno problem, so needless to say, I climbed. The problem is awesome though. You start out on an okay left crimp and a right hand rail then you can either throw big for a jug or what I do is heel up, lock off, bump to a small crimp then up to a larger crimpy side pull. From there I don't have any clue how to get up. haha.

I hope that everyone is doing fine back home and I'll try to get some pictures of all of said climbing up some time here in the very near future!