Sunday morning we all ended up sleeping in until like 9:30 and then we headed right down the dog walk over the the Manky Alcove, where Kevin had a few things he wanted to get on. I started out with a nice 5.9 redpoint of The Essence of Manky. It's a pretty odd climb that works up a stem dihedral and then towards the top you have to end up liebacking on some good holds. Pretty cool all in all though. Next, we went over and I got the onsight of Creep Show, a 5.10a. It sucks. I don't recommend that route to anyone. Next, I really wanted to get on something that would be tough for me, and I sure found it. It's a pretty cool and really overhung route called Industry which is 5.12a. Stick clipped the first bolt and then flew right up to the third bolt, which I thought had been the meat of the climb. Unfortunately, I was wrong. From the third bolt up to the anchors involves pulling around a corner to get to a little slab and then it would be cake. Unfortunatley, my beta sucked at all times and I could never get to the top and ended up having to bail after my second go. I'm definitely gonna give it another go here sometime soon, when the weather cools off!
Here are some pictures from the climbing.
Clipping the first bolt:
Chalking up:
Kevin working up the route:
On the .10a. It sucked:
Right now is before a whole lot of grunting and whining started:
On the .12a. You can tell how overhung it is by looking at how my quickdraws are falling:
Clipping the second bolt:
Stuck, and hang-dogging it at the 3rd bolt.
A shot of me hoisting Taylor up to the 3rd bolt so he could try the top. If you look at how he is hanging you can again see how overhung the route is:
1 comment:
Do you take your shirt off to climb so that you can be sure to scab every part of your back and chest as you go back down? Ouch!!!
Love you,
Mom
Post a Comment