Thursday, September 25, 2008

New route on the wall...

Well, I got home from work today and Lane wanted to hang out and do some bouldering on the wall. So, we messed around for a bit, and found some cool little lines. I also gave a line another try that I was working on some yesterday and was able to give it a send today.

I decided to call it Pinch Master Flex, and if you pay close enough attention you can see the start is a match on a cruddy bread loaf pinch, to a slopey little edge then an immediate bump to a moderately good left hand pinch. Next, you have to match your right heel and hand and rock up hard on the heel and do your best to lock off and hit a decent sloper (I couldn't lock off quite good enough either, and consequently my feet popped). From there you need to re-establish your feet and get ready for the crux, a move over to a left hand undercling pinch. From there move the feet to really get hard into the undercling, drop a knee to a jug, and then cross through the rest of the way on decent jugs.

Pretty psyched, and I think that it would probably fall somewhere in the spectrum of hard V3. Just a little guess. We'll have to see how everyone else does on the problem to verify that though. Here's a little video of the route. Watch out for vertigo though. Lane got all sideways with it half way through the video.



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